CAL.595
In order to be able to sequence the information on the dial, our caliber 595 features a unique "cross architecture", in the form of a double regulator (one for the time and the other for the calendar) consisting of 4 instantaneous jumping apertures, 2 swiping hands and 1 retrograde date. Energy storage and consumption has been a real challenge for this project, as in some cases (such as midnight on December 31st) all five jumps occur simultaneously.
This requires a double barrel and a construction in which the movement stores energy in 4 different places (over the course of 12H, 24H, 7 days and 31 days) to activate the various jumps without impacting the amplitude of the movement.
A wolf in sheep's clothing.
SAFETY MODE
Calendar watches have a well-earned reputation for being temperamental, if you set them incorrectly, you are often good for of an expensive trip back to the manufacturer; but not here. In the event of accidental tampering during the setting process, our caliber 595 is equipped with a safety device that resets the date to the first day of the following month.
Exemple: if you push on the MONTH corrector on Jan.31st, the watch will jump to Feb.1 instead of Feb.31 which doesn't exist.
QUICK SET PROCEDURE
Complicated calendars often come with a drawback: they require reading the user manual and, in the worst cases, adjustment can take up to 20 to 25 minutes.
We decided to tackle this problem from the inside out by developing our caliber 595 around the "less time setting than winding" philosophy. Therefore the commands have been placed on the case band in the most intuitive way possible. The TIME and DATE are set with the crown (back and forth), just like on any conventional watch. For the DAY and MONTH, two smooth pushers have been added to the case band, allowing the nearest aperture to be set.
MULTI-LAYERED CONSTRUCTION
This image shows the three display layers stacked together with the HOUR at the bottom, the MONTH in the middle, and the AM-PM indicator + DAY at the top.
Having three moving discs so close together requires careful consideration of every aspect, such as the material chosen, the excellence of the manufacturing, the precision of the measurements, and the final adjustment performed by the watchmaker.